Harry Koulakis started his career at an Independent Produce Market in the Sunset District in San Francisco. He yearned to work in a grocery store environment and with a few connections was directed to Andronico’s. For the past twenty two years he has been a dedicated Andronico’s employee, starting out in Produce, but the word went thru the store that he had an interest and knowledge in wine, and Harry was given the opportunity to become an assistant to the Wine Steward. Ten years ago the Wine Steward retired, Harry was promoted and today proudly holds that title.

Is there something unique about Andronico’s Wine Department?

“Absolutely. We have a lot of wines you just don’t find in any other grocery stores.”

Jeff Porter is the corporate wine Buyer for Andronico’s.

“He shops around and discovers interesting wines that people have no idea about and brings them to our stores.”

I wonder if particular wines do well in one Andronico's store and not another. Harry assures me this is true and attributes this:

“Demographics. Some people are looking for different wines or read an article and want to try a particular wine.”

He points to a display of Argentinean wines arranged in front of the meat counter.

“That’s my third shipment of that wine, it’s moving very well.”

“It’s a Pampa Alta, Malbec. I sold out of the white. I still have the red and the rose.”

I’m tempted to try this as my friend Debbie just returned from Argentina and swooned over the Malbec wines.

Advice for the novice wine drinker, seeking education?

“Start tasting. See what you like. Taste a variety. You’re not going to like them all.”

Harry further explains the pairing of wine with food.

“If you were to taste a Greek wine with American food, it just does not work, but if you had a dry Greek wine with a Greek dish, it works beautifully. The idea is to pair up the wines with local foods. You’ll get a much better appreciation of the wine”

I asked Harry for some help to pair wine with the food for my annual holiday dinner party last week My three dear girlfriends toast the season and I wanted it to be special, but under $20

A shrimp appetizer, with garlic, shallots, butter and dill?

“Gloria Ferrer/Brut Non Vintage” (17.99)

It sparkled and brought out the sweetness and spiciness of the shrimp.

Osso Bucco with Risotto Milanese?

“Ambra/Carmignano/ Montefortino” (16.99)

This wine was full, ripe and earthy and complemented the lamb shanks and tomato sauce.

I asked Harry if money were no object, what wine would he drink on this December night?

“A Jayson Cabernet ($54.99) or a Titus Cabernet ($41.99”

A Christmas wine with Beef?

“A Hardy Napa Valley Cabernet.”

Ham?

“A Pinot Noir or white, depending on your side dishes.”

I asked Harry to describe the Andronico’s customer.

“Eclectic. Look at the nature of San Francisco. We get all kinds of customers.: Working people, Professional people, Doctors and Nurses from the Hospital, Mom’s who drop their kids off across the Street at St. Anne’s, the older retired people who live in the apartments on the block and people from all over the city.”

I’m curious how Harry became interested in wine.

“I’ve been drinking wine since I was five years old.”

Harry is a native of Tripolos, Greece in the Pelopenese region.

“As long as you could stand up at the table and ask for it, you were served beer and wine.”

He explains the ritual.

“Wine is part of the meal and it’s treated as part of the meal, it’s not abused, it’s respected.”

On December 17, 1961, exactly forty one years ago today, the Koulakis family left Greece and immigrated to the Bay Area. Sixteen years later, Harry’s father, Anastacsio passed away and following Greek tradition, Harry the eldest at twenty-two became the breadwinner for the Koulakis family. He began his life in the food and eventually wine business and is pleased with his choices and customers.

Some sparkling suggestions to toast 2009?

“Charles Heidsieck/Brut ($57.99) and Gossett ($33.99).”

I can almost hear Don Ho singing,

“Tiny bubbles in the wine…make me feel happy, make me feel fine.”

NEXT WEEK: MEET VIOLET, A FLOWERING PRESENCE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD.